The display works, the settings seem to work, but it has no output to drive the stepping motor it is supposed to

No se pudo cargar el contenido.

bouton de controle pas fiable , pas bon dans l.ensemble , ne devrais pas etre vendu par amazone,

Works ok but the programming is not obvious. No instructions which is why I put 3 stars. I will take time to figure this out and this shouldn’t be so. The video show a hand setting parameters but even that is weird.

I wanted to use a foot switch to turn on & off a Nema34 stepper motor for a coil winder. I wanted a digital display that showed speed in RPMs, and could could directly connect to the motor without needing a separate driver. My motor is rated at 6A, but for my use case (10-150RPM), it only draws about 1A from a 24VDC power supply. The current increases at certain speeds (1.9A max at 350 RPM, & 1.4A at 999 RPM). Seems non intuitive to me, but probably normal behavior for any given stepper motorTo mimic pressing any of the controller’s front panel buttons, I found 5 pins located on the left side of the PCB (directly under the 3 subdivision switches). These pins are marked GND, STOP, CCW, CW, and OUT. I used a multimeter, and with no power source connected, determined that the STOP, CCW, and CW pins are electrically connected in parallel with the front panel switches. The panel switches, when pressed, connect the the appropriate pins to the GND pin. There is no OUT button so this pin is somewhat of a mystery. It’s labeled as “reserved” in a diagram on Amazon’s description page for the product. Throughout my testing it showed no AC or DC voltage with respect to GND, and has a 2.5 Meg resistance to the GND pin when the controller has no power connection.To easily access the 5 pins with a soldering iron, I decided to remove the PCB from the case. This wasn’t absolutely necessary, but it made it much easier for me to wrap & solder 26AWG wire to the the pins. I carefully cut between the case and the silicone blobs on the PCB where they held it to the case. With the blobs cut, I pulled up the PCB to reveal yet another PCB that it was socketed to. The corresponding socket on the PCB beneath is marked with the same text as the male pins on the top PCB, with the exception of the OUT pin which was marked as FAN.With the top PCB removed, I soldered 5 short wires from the board to a 6 pin 0.1” pitch male header. I bent the wires connected to the header to the board so that it stood vertical. I then cut a thin piece of plastic to insulate the bottom of the header from the PCB. After checking continuity between the header pins and the PCB pins, I hot glued the plastic insulator to the PCB board and then hot glued the bottom of the header to the plastic (see photos).After reseating the top PCB back onto the bottom PCB, I powered up the controller and verified that shorting the CW, CCW, & STOP header pins to the GND using the header pins mimicked the front panel buttons.I use work mode 3 (F-01 set to P03), which essentially uses the CW, CCW, & STOP buttons to stop and start the motor for an indefinite period of time. Speed is adjusted by the rotary encoder on the front panel. I only needed a CW rotation for the coil winder, so I ultimately connected just the GND and CW pins on the header to a normally open SPST foot switch. Momentarily pressing the foot switch turned on the motor in the clockwise direction. Momentarily pressing the foot switch again stopped the motor.I figured I’d likely house the controller in a case some day, so I attached two 6 pin 0.1” female sockets to the ends of a short piece of ribbon cable making it easy to detach and reattach these connections to the controller (see photos).So far the setup works really well and I’m happy with the functionality. One thing I did notice was that the heat sink started to get really hot at certain RPM settings. Whenever I delivered more than around 1.5A to the motor for extended periods, the controller ultimately went into thermal shutdown and stopped the motor. After the controller cools down sufficiently, it comes back to life and works just fine. This controller is rated at 4A, but I suspect if you want to drive a motor with higher than about 1.5A, you’ll likely need a fan to cool it down if you’re running it for long periods of time. One hint to this issue is the mysterious FAN/OUT pin. This pin is also marked “reserved” on a diagram in the Amazon product description. My best guess is that it transitions from LOW level (0V) to a HIGH voltage level (3.3V?) when the controller gets too hot. This could connect to gate of MOSFET to run a small fan. I haven’t tested this theory as I don’t want to intentionally overheat the controller :).Overall this controller has lots of features and has a nice easy to read display. Like other reviewers have said, most of these extra features are great for testing stepper motors. It worked great for my project!