No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroLas juntas Fel-Pro ofrecen un 100% de sellado de vehículos con materiales específicos para su aplicación para darte soluciones de sellado con el rendimiento y durabilidad profesionales confianza.
JOE SUAREZ
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 11 de febrero de 2025
Stoppers are too narrow to thread with a rubber weight belt.
Ted P.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 27 de enero de 2025
I'm new at rebuilding motors, but this part fit right and easy install.
Poppa Smurfs Garage
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 4 de febrero de 2024
Not to hard to install. found my leak as I forgot to pull the pin that held the stock one in.
Bob Customer
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 13 de noviembre de 2024
They havent rusted
Leafy Tree
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 19 de abril de 2024
These are just as described. I tested them for fit with my weight belt and they are sized correctly. Decent quality but not superior.
Bob K
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 20 de abril de 2024
I have a couple of weight belts. One for my wetsuit and one for my dry suite. The weights on my belts tend to slip around, and it feels like I have to adjust them frequently. These really help keep them in place. I'm not sure I understand having a package of 6. I actually need 4 on each belt. So a package of 8 would have been ideal for me. Maybe they think they're giving 2 extra as they might be easy to lose.These feel like they're durable. I doubt they'll break or wear out. They have teeth, but I don't think the teeth are critical to staying in place. The "other" 2 that I use don't have teeth and they work just fine.
Brenda
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 15 de septiembre de 2023
These guys know how to make a gasket.
Robert J. McKinney
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 1 de noviembre de 2021
The product was the same as was installed 50 miles ago during the rebuild. Still leaks.
C. Varner
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 24 de octubre de 2020
Nice sturdy seal, fairly rigid core. Much simpler to install than the old-style rope seal. Two-piece seal can be installed without removing the engine, and in some cases without completely removing the oil pan - you might be able to unbolt the pan and shift it forward far enough to get the job done. I chose to disconnect the steering linkage and remove the subframe connector to get the pan all the way out.Don't drop the rear main bearing cap - it is cast iron and does not bounce on concrete well.Getting the upper half of the old rope-style seal out was difficult; I drove a coarse drywall screw into it, angling away from the crankshaft but trying not to go so deep as to nick the seal channel in the block, and pulled on the screw with vice grips while barring the engine over. I had to repeat this a second time before I had enough seal pulled out to grab it with the vice grips, and then it came out smoothly, again while barring the engine over. This part would be easier with a helper to turn the engine, but can be done alone. You'll want a big 1/2" ratchet for leverage, with a short extension; use a rachet vs breaker bar so you don't have to keep repositioning it.If you're replacing a rope-style seal, don't forget to knock out the tiny "nail" in the bearing cap. I put a little sealant in that hole but it's not technically necessary.Thoroughly lube the new seal before installing, and make sure the little lip is on the engine side. I got mine started ok, while barring the engine, but had to press the end with the flat of a screwdriver to finish it off. Again, easier with a helper but can be done alone.Offset the top half by about 3/8", and the bottom by 3/8" the other way, so the ends of the seal halves aren't right at the joint between the block & main bearing cap. Again, make sure the lip on the lower seal half is on the engine side.Clean the mating surfaces between the block & bearing cap and apply a thin bead of sealant. Reinstall the cap; coat the bolts with assembly lube or engine oil before installing. My procedure called for torquing the cap bolts to 10 pounds, then smacking the crankshaft forward & back with a mallet, then torquing to 60-70 pounds.Seems to be working well. I was quoted approximately 22 times the cost of the seal to have it installed, and did the job myself in an afternoon.
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