El No-break CP1500AVRLCD ha demostrado ser una solución confiable y robusta para la gestión de energía, proporcionando una capa adicional de protección para mis dispositivos electrónicos esenciales. Este equipo ha superado mis expectativas en términos de rendimiento y funcionalidad.Lo más destacado de este no-break es su capacidad para ofrecer una protección excepcional contra fluctuaciones de voltaje y cortes de energía. La tecnología AVR (Regulación Automática de Voltaje) asegura que la electricidad suministrada a mis dispositivos permanezca dentro de límites seguros, lo que es crucial para la integridad de equipos sensibles como computadoras y electrodomésticos.La capacidad de respaldo de batería es otro aspecto impresionante. En caso de un apagón, este no-break proporciona tiempo suficiente para realizar un cierre ordenado de mis dispositivos, evitando pérdidas de datos y daños potenciales. La pantalla LCD informativa en el panel frontal ofrece detalles claros sobre el estado de la batería y el consumo de energía, lo que facilita el monitoreo continuo.El diseño compacto y elegante del no-break lo hace fácilmente integrable en cualquier entorno de trabajo u hogar. Las tomas de corriente con respaldo de batería y las tomas solo de supresión de sobretensión proporcionan flexibilidad para conectar una variedad de dispositivos, adaptándose a las necesidades individuales.La instalación y configuración del CP1500AVRLCD son sencillas. Además, la alarma audible notifica de manera eficaz sobre eventos críticos, como la activación del respaldo de batería.Lo tengo para un monitor de 26 pulgadas y una computadora gamer con una RTX4080, AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D y Fuente de Poder Aorus P850W 80 Plus.En resumen, el No-break CyberPower es una inversión sólida para aquellos que buscan un sistema de respaldo de energía confiable y potente. Su rendimiento consistente y características avanzadas hacen de este no-break una elección destacada para la protección de dispositivos electrónicos valiosos.

Es un buen producto, claro hay que saber comprar estos aparatos, este CyberPower CP1000AVRLCD por ejemplo es de onda simulada, es decir en un osciloscopio verías la onda escalonada, esto no es recomendable para algunas computadoras con fuentes de poder especializadas que requieren onda sinusoidal suave (ondas, con valles y crestas totalmente suaves y degradados, como las que salen de un generador por inducción).Lo compré para proteger un televisor 55" de 135W y un home teather HK de 150W (con unos periféricos que no suman más de 50W en total), por lo que mi consumo máximo será de 335W y quizá agregue un pequeño subwoofer para home teather de 100W (este no break soporta hasta 600W), así que estoy sobrado y quizá me dé unos 20 minutos de respaldo. Esporádicamente conectaré también una notebook de 35W de consumo, que no es demasiado.Es fácil de configurar y para la mayoría de los casos es suficiente con los arreglos que trae de default, la opción de proteger el cable (o la HDTV-TDT) es un gran plus, y también la protección de red es otro buen plus (recomiendo usar sólo cables de red STP de clase 6 a 8, para la mayoría de los casos es suficiente un STP 6A de cobre puro OFC ~AWG 26 a 23~, que sin problemas maneja redes GB ~hasta 10 si la memoria no me falla~, y frecuencias de hasta 550MHz), no recomiendo loa cables UTP pues pueden recibir algo de interferencia y más en estos tiempos donde estamos invadidos por tantas ondas electromagnéticas que pueden generar interferencias o micro corrientes parásitas.El problema que le veo es el software, no es muy difícil pero no es para usuarios principiantes, en mi caso no lo usaré pues la notebook no estará conectada permanentemente, pero es un punto a considerar para quienes usarán esto por ejemplo en un servidor personal que piensen montar por su cuenta.Espero sea duradero y más por su garantía de 3 años, ojalá no tenga problemas al registrarlo pues el recibo de Amazon no es factura, pero no creo que haya problemas, pues desde la página de cyberpower te redirige a Amazon como una de las opciones de compra en línea.Es de notar que los contactos que dicen que sólo dan protección contra picos (está dividido en contactos con protección y batería y sólo con protección de picos), mantienen la alimentación de corriente aunque el no break esté apagado, ahí pueden conectarse por ejemplo aparatos como el echo dot, Roku, Fire, smart hub y algunos periféricos que no requieran suministro continuo de energía durante los apagones y fallos de red eléctrica, pero sí requieran energía de la red eléctrica 24/7.En cuanto a estética es muy austero, no parece de calidad pero funciona perfectamente y sólo tiene 3 botones al frente, el LCD se lee claramente y es blanco; sin dudas en un tiempo compraré uno de estos para cada televisor de casa.

初期不良があり、返品させていただきました。やはり並行輸入品は、不安がありますね

My CyberPower CP 1350 AVR LCD Intelligent UPS device (battery backup and surge suppression) arrived two days ago (purchased on Amazon). The first thing that happened when I plugged it in was a red light on in the back of it, "Wiring fault." I looked it up and on the Cyberpowersystems.support page it says, "The wiring fault light indicates that the outlet that the unit is connected to is either not properly grounded or has reversed wiring. First, try connecting the unit to another outlet. If the unit still displays the electrical wiring fault, contact technical support for assistance. If the unit does not display the wiring fault light in the new outlet, you will need to have an electrician correct the problem with the faulty outlet." So, after trying it on another outlet and also got a red light with that one, I called CyberPower. I just want to say how polite and attentive the CyberPower guys are on the telephone. I have since called them with more questions about hooking up the unit, and each time (3 different guys) they were knowledgeable and solved the problem quickly. The red light problem went as follows: they said that the outlets probably are not grounded, and if all your outlets give the red light, it could mean that your house doesn't have grounded outlets. I was surprised, since almost all of my outlets have 3-prong plugs; the 3-prongs are supposed to be for grounded units, but people can install a 3-prong on an outlet that is not grounded, and that still does not make it grounded. Very important to know! So, I bought a "receptable tester" at Lowe's for $5 and tried out the outlets in my house and discovered that certain rooms did not have grounded outlets, while other rooms did. (Just want to add that you can do this without buying a receptacle tester, if you have a surge protector power strip with the two lights on it that say "Protected" and "Grounded." If the "Grounded" light doesn't light up or is DIM, then that outlet is NOT grounded - same thing with the receptacle tester - the two lights on the right should be fully on - if the middle one is bright and the one on the right is DIM then your outlet is NOT grounded. My electrician confirmed this. At first, he thought maybe the center light was reflecting in the right light, but it was DIM. He tested the outlet with his other tools, and said it was NOT grounded.) It dawned on me that the rooms that had grounded outlets were built 1970s or later, and the rooms that did not have grounded outlets were installed with the original house, built in 1955. Unfortunately, the rooms I need to use the CyberPower device in are the old part of the house where my office is. I'm sharing this information, because there are likely to be others who will experience this same situation. If your house is an older house, it is likely that the outlets in some rooms (the older ones) are not grounded, which means you need to call in a professional electrician and have a new, grounded, outlet installed. A new grounded outlet involves putting in a separate line from the main electric box in your house, all the way to the spot where you want an outlet to hook up your UPS device. For many people this isn't difficult. For me it was problematic since my basement is finished, with paneling and ceiling tiles all around, and there were only two teeny possible places in the ceilings of closets where the electrician could try to drill a hole up into the wall for an outlet on the first floor. It took him several hours, but he was finally about to get around the heating ducts and struts, and with the aid of a special drill extender he was able to get two new, grounded, outlets installed in my first-floor office. I had him install two, although I only needed one, so I'd have plenty of outlets for digital devices that need grounding. It did cost me, but now I can be confident that my electronics will be protected with grounding, surge suppression, and battery backup.The second problem I faced was when I hooked up the UPS to my new (replacement model) Comcast "wireless gateway" modem/router, and wanted the WiFi signal to go out, not from the Comcast unit, but from my Apple Time Capsule unit. I'm sharing this info because I feel certain that others will run into this, too. I followed the Comcast instructions with one exception - the Comcast cable comes out of the wall and into the cable "input" of the CyberPower UPS device. Then you need another cable coming out of the CyberPower unit, from the cable "output" into the Comcast modem/router. So, I thought I had everything hooked up correctly, but it didn't work. I called Comcast and had to talk with an intake person for about twenty minutes before they would pass me to a tech specialist. They helped me get it set up, but after we got off the phone, my Apple Time Capsule continued to blink amber (yellow) and didn't go to the green light. When I checked in the Time Machine app, there was a message, "Double NAT." I looked that up, and it means you have two WiFi systems running. So, even though the Comcast guy told me he was disabling the WiFi on my Comcast unit so that signals would go out through my Time Capsule, there was still this problem. The Comcast guy told me he couldn't help me any more, have to call Apple. So I called Apple. Apple is always very nice, but the intake person didn't know what to do about the yellow light. He passed me to a WiFi specialist at Apple, and that guy knew exactly what to do. So here is what you should do if your Apple Time Capsule keeps blinking amber (yellow) after you have your CyberPower and Comcast set up: Look in Applications - Utilities - AirPort Utility. The Internet icon should have a green light to the left of it. If the Time Capsule icon has an amber (yellow) light to the left of it, simply double-click on the amber light in the picture. It will open a small window. Again, see the yellow circle there and click on it. You will see a small drop-down that has the option "Ignore." --> CLICK ON IGNORE. That is the solution. The Apple guy says "We get this all the time." There are other solutions you will see online, including something about "bridge." Don't do that. Just click "ignore" and you'll be all set from there on out.One other difficulty I had was plugging devices into the CyberPower unit. I thought something was wrong. The situation is, when you plug things into the unit for the first time, it takes a lot of muscle to shove them into the sockets. Right out of the factory, the plugs are tight. So just use your strength and force them in. After that, it's no problem at all.I set the CyberPower unit on the floor near the Comcast outlet and modem, and hooked up my computer speaker system and Time Capsule near it. That keeps all the wires in the same area, and off my desk. I have a 14-gauge (9-foot) heavy duty extension cord running from the CyberPower unit to my iMac desktop. I purchased the extension cord on Amazon, too. The CyberPower guys said to get a 14-gauge "one-to-one" extension cord. That means that each electronic device you put on an extension cord coming out of the UPS device needs to have its own extension cord - this is important. This is why I moved my Time Capsule and speakers over to plug in directly to the CyberPower device on the floor. So my desk has just one cord coming off of it, no spaghetti mess of wires all over the place, just on the floor in the corner. The extension cord I picked is a neutral gray, and very flexible:http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Conditioner-Major-Appliance-Extension/dp/B013Q5DOZ8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00One last comment - this is a most impressive looking machine. It is big and very solid. It is also VERY HEAVY. Other than the things I mentioned, I have had no problem with the device. I have a new grounded outlet now, and I managed to get a Comcast modem hooked through it, and the WiFi signal to go through my Apple Time Capsule, which I'm sure many of you have. So I hope this info helps some of you out there. I am very happy with my purchase, and now thinking I will buy another one for my TV and sound system in the recreation room (which is in the newer part of the house and has grounded outlets!). If I ever do have a problem with it, I will report back! Happy customer, and very happy with the CyberPower tech guys!

I received my UPS today and after several days of pure panic I was relieved to learn my fears were for naught.After I had already committed to the purchase I read about something I wasn't aware of. New power supplies using a technology called PFC.Apparently many people were finding that this model UPS doesn't place nice with power supplies that require a real sine wave, which this device does not supply. Oooooopsy.... Panic panic panic! Run about and wring hands for three days! Panic more !!I have two large, high power Hackintosh systems and one FreeNAS unit in a rack mount configuration and all three of them are FULL of hard drives.Between the three machines there are about 28 4tb hard drives installed. So it's a hefty load.But the thing that was scary is that all the power supplies are the new PFC type. When I got the UPS in I shut down one of the systems and plugged it into the UPS. I booted it into bios setup mode rather than the OS so if it failed the test nothing would be harmed. I pulled the power cord of the UPS from the all and the Hackintosh kept right on going like nothing had changed. Plugged it back in and pulled it again. Rock solid, no problem.The power supplies in my machines are Corsair HX650 and HT750 (x2) and after some more research it seems that Corsair power supplies are not as sensitive about the false sine wave this UPS provides.As for run time I have no concerns as long as they will keep the three machines powered up for 15 seconds to 1 minute.I have a whole house Generac generator that automatically starts up and transfers upon city power failure.When the city power fails the Generac self starts (runs on natural gas) and transfers the house from city to generator. The shortest start and transfer time I've seen is 15 seconds. I can imagine that maybe in the winter if it's really cold (which is very rare here) that it MIGHT take longer to crank up and transfer.So the Cyberpower unit only serves to carry the machines for a very short time until the generator kicks in.There's also a nasty, nasty downside to the generator, when it detects that city power has been restored it will automatically transfer the load back to the city and the generator shuts down to standby. But when it transfers from generator back to city, it's a very rapid cycle, like half a second.And electronics don't like rapid power on/off cycles like that. Especially computers. Even though it's only like 1/2 a second long that's enough to crash a computer and make all the clocks start blinking. So again the Cyberpower UPS will rescue my stuff from that nasty transfer business.I have no doubt it can carry three heavy Hackintosh systems for less than one minute and that's really my only need.I am pleased and relieved that it does play nice with my Corsair PFC power supplies after all.I will probably buy two more of these to carry the rest of the electronics at my desk and I'll probably buy several of the much smaller units to put around the house to cover when the generator does it's thing. And of course there is an added benefit of protecting my equipment much better than a $10 surge protection strip from Walmart would.As others have mentioned, the Mac software is pretty barren and bleak but it does work. It would be really nice if it could send a command through my LAN to tell all machines to power down but I guess I would have to get enterprise gear to have that ability.The price was right and this will do what I need, keep three machines running for under one minute.I just hope it doesn't make poo on itself like some people have mentioned theirs did.

My old UPS battery seemed to be dying. Every few hours it was turning off my main PC. So, after doing some research I purchased the CyberPower 1350AVR , a unit more powerful and with more features than my old APC unit to solve the outage problem and provide more uptime in case of a power outage. My plan was to also plug my Internet modem and wireless router into it.I unpacked the unit and plugged it in until it indicated that the batteries were fully charged. Then I followed the provided instructions - first unplugging it, connecting the equipment to be protected, and then plugging it back into the wall.There are eight power outlets on the back, four with battery and surge protection and four with only surge protection. Curiously, the instructions state that four of the outlets are spaced to accommodate AC Adapters (wall warts.) Actually only one was spaced far enough away from the others to accommodate a wall wart and it was located on the battery-backed side. I also connected the optional included USB cable to the server to control and monitor the unit from my PC with the included PowerPanel software.Once everything was connected, I pushed the button below the LED screen and graphs were displayed indicating the load capacity and the battery capacity or charge status. It was fully charged, of course, but that graph will be useful during a power outage to see how much power is left before total blackout. The capacity in use was at two bars out of five and the estimated run time was eighteen minutes. So, I was using 20% of the units capacity and could certainly plug in more equipment in the future.I wanted the unit to automatically shut-down the server in the event of a power outage, so I loaded the PowerPanel Personal Edition software that was included, and under Runtime, configured it to shut-off the computer two minutes after any power outage. I tested this by unplugging the CyberPower, and it did indeed shut down my PC in an orderly fashion, closing all open applications and files, right at the two minute mark.I also tested the scheduling function of the software by setting it up to turn my computer off at midnight and back on at 4 AM. It shut the computer off at the proper time, as evidenced by Windows log entries, but although it restored power at 4 AM.The PowerPanel software also provides statistics and other information about the operation of the UPS, most of which can also be seen on the LED screen on the front of the unit by holding down the button. The software also allows the settings to be changed, such as turning on or off alarm sounds, setting tolerances for voltage fluctuations, and running tests. I left all of the default values, other than the one for shutting off the PC, which was set at five minutes out of the box.Along with the USB cable, telephone and Cable TV cords are also supplied. The unit provides surge protection for Cable TV and a telephone or Ethernet network connection. No Ethernet cable was provided. I did not test surge protection for cable TV, telephone of Ethernet. I have had the unit for nearly a month now, but there have been no power interruptions to test its performance in that regard, though I simulated outages by unplugging it a few times and it performed flawlessly by triggering the alarm and shutting down the computer. I'll update the review if I encounter any problems.The unit has a Three-Year Warranty against defects in design, assembly, material or workmanship and further protection is offered by a $500,000 Connected Equipment Guarantee. The connected equipment guarantee only kicks in if the damage was caused by a defective UPS, and then only after all other "primary" protections, such as insurance, have been exhausted.The unit is quiet and generates no noticeable heat.

I've only tested this in an "artificial" scenario, i.e., pulling the plug from the wall after having it charged. Well, it did fine there (as well as with the "self-test" available via the software config). Make sure to download the new software from the Cyberpower website for the latest version. I'm using it on Windows 7 64 bit, and it performs flawlessly. Low resources, and stable. Impressive.At any rate, I really enjoy the readout from the front. Voltage In, Voltage Out, Power frequency, instantaneous power consumption (in kW), and load and battery capacity as well as estimated runtime are available from the front display. After a period of inactivity, the screen will turn off to avoid needless power consumption. A simple button press will bring it back.As I stated earlier, I haven't had to test its actual capabilities yet (probably better this way, ha). But living in Florida, that's expected as long as it's not the summer - which is when most of our power events occur. Whether it's a lightning storm, or peak load on the grid during a hot summer afternoon when ACs are on full blast, various conditions can create short power outages, or more likely, severe brownouts. I've lost a router this way. However, I feel more confident with this UPS. I wish it would boost and buck at narrower ranges (the low limit is 90Vac and high limit is 140Vac before it bucks/boosts by switching to the battery), to keep it more in line with the 120Vac +/- 5% optimal range. But that's ok.This UPS will be tested in real world conditions, but it'll have to wait until the next Florida summer. I figured I'd buy it now while it's cheaper!The thing that impressed me the most was it's capacity. I appear to have way overestimated my needs! ha. According to the software, with my computer, 22" LCD monitor, Klipsch 2.1 speakers, and my Linksys WRT54GL router plugged in, I have about 38 minutes of runtime. Load is only around 13% or so. I wish it came with more battery backup outlets, but it is ok for my needs. If I need to, I can simply put in a splitter to gain a few extra outlets. (Note: if you do this, make sure to not exceed the total capacity of the UPS, or to overload the one outlet - it can only handle so many amps... use the split with lower-drain devices like modems and routers; in addition, use a regular power splitter, not one with a surge protector built in. It isn't recommended to daisy chain surge protectors due to possible harmonic effects between them during a power event). Also, be sure to heed the warning in the instructions: do not connect a laser printer due to its high transient current draws. I have a Brother laser printer that I have connected to my non-UPS surge protector (the one I used before I bought this UPS).My only complaint is that whether by UPS' handling, or maybe handling somewhere earlier in the chain, a corner of the UPS had cracked and bent. It was disappointing, but the unit itself still worked, and it wasn't a hazard in any way. It's cosmetic damage, but I wish perhaps it was better packed, since throwing around this 30+ lb box as it was packed certainly will do some damage. I wish Amazon would have put some extra packing around the retail box; instead, they ship the retail box in a bigger cardboard box, and stuff some brown paper in. Some peanuts, bubble wrap, and/or air bags would have served the task far, far better here, especially for something so heavy. However, with the free super saver shipping, I suppose you get what you pay for. BUT - the UPS still works and with damage only on that back corner, so I won't complain too much.Anyway, if you're looking for a decent UPS at a great price point, I'd recommend this. Obviously, if you're looking for mission-critical or very high end (pure sine wave output type) UPSes, you will have to spend more. However, for the majority of home and small office users, something like this should be perfect.