MOTOKU - Conjunto de embrague de compresor de CA para Toyota Yaris 2006-2012

I was offered over $1200 *three places) to replace my 2007 Yaris A/C compressor. I was HOPING it was only the pulley bearing making the racket, it waz. A/C was still running but the pulley is spinning whenever the engine is running and it's down low, subjected to road spray/salt and such.A little chore jack stands, taking off wheel, some under-tray panel stuff, belt.IF you have your belt still ON, loosen the shaft/pulley FIRST, then remove the belt. Otherwise you'll have to find another way to rotate pulley relative to the 7mm hex shaft on the compressor. You MIGHT be able to do from above (after dropping the pass side under-tray, but a LOT easier to take the wheel off, having done it myself). You'll need a thinner (std worked OK) deep 7mm socket, (an intermediate length might work, but short one barley would engage flat on the shaft, and then likely out of luck).I had bypassed the A/C with a short belt, so, with a bad shoulder, GENTLY used an impact driver to loosen. It worked fine but I wouldn't recommend that (use some other way to hold/rotate pulley first. It is RIGHT HAND THREADED, so think about it before doing. I also had sprayed (with difficulty) some penetrating oil onto shaft and behind pulley a week prior. I HAD tried to use an adjustable pin wrench (grinder) but not great for holding pulley in place. a clean strap wrench could work. I HAD considered remounting (twice) the long, correct, belt and then loosening, but that seemed too much work. The 1/4 adapter on a Makita impact driver, with a tiny applications at low power setting worked, but I was worried about damaging flats/shaft/internals...NOT my first recommendation, but worked swell.You'll also need usual tools for the belt (12,14mm). do NOT pry in back of alternator vs head to tighten the belt (the VVTI solenoid can be damaged).You can watch some Youtube videos about it (almost ALL India or Philippines). There is a cush-type-drive set-up inside the center of the pulley, as well as a DELICATE three-legged shear hub (in case the compressor itself locks up). As I spun the pulley wrong way after loosening, the inside of the drive parts off the inside of the (still threaded onto the nose of compressor) OUTER, ribbed pulley. As it does this, you'll lose the ability to hold the shaft with the socket as the shaft will be retreating in to the pulley. There was enough friction to keep spinning it of. Had there not been, I'd have had to walk the inner portion out from the little slide-in rubber shock isolators within the still-attached outer pulley.My old pulley bearing was completely trashed and if I hadn't have bypassed it with other belt, would have seized by now. THAT would have then tossed belt, no water pump or alternator, etc. Had done the water pump a couple years prior, TRIED a new alternator, hoping it was that bearing (it was not).Compressor snout is fairly thin aluminum, that is undercut for the snap ring. Some folks have broken (boldly prying with two screwdrivers from behind) the snout off and then only thing that will hold it on is the threaded pulley, so work it off slowly. I did NOT need a puller, it's a tight slip fit.There are one or more shim washers on the shaft, so don't lose them when removing pulley. This kit also had some new washers, in addition to a new snap ring (old one seemed fine and was different construction, so I reused it).I figured I'd have to emery-paper of otherwise rehab the compressor snout, but it was very clean. I just used EtOH and a trace wipe of of oil before reinstalling new pulley.It went very well, the inner race diameter was perfect, the alignment and fitment for the snap ring were perfect (a concern I had as I didn't want to have to keep pulling it off and on again (its a tight fit, a lot of tiny rocking it off and on to seat fully).Cannot say ultimate quality of the bearing/new pulley, but about 450 miles into it, all is swell. I had the A/C bypassed for over two YEARS, (not a necessity where I am usually driving it) so was also concerned about dry seals and such, but runs and cools great! Silent bearing.I saved $1200 or so, for about 2hrs of (likely needlessly overly-cautious) time.If it had not solved the problem, it would have needed a new compressor. But why would the internal bearings have failed?I DID worry that there were likely rocking forces on the internals of the shaft, given the condition of the old pulley bearing, but all seems fine.If you're not handy, but ARE cheap; or a compressor install close to the value of your older car...I'd give it a shot. If not you (as timid or no tools), try an adventurous/creative local small shop (Toyota dealer will not do it I think and DO NOT sell this part), I'd guess small shop would charge $150 or so to install it for you. Not much to lose, and NOW I can drive across KS and MO on trips in the summer without hating it..Best of luck, one guy's experience with long, I know, helpful thoughts.